Drinking in the Morning After

The basics of the Bloody are tomato juice, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, black pepper, and vodka. Sea salt, Old Bay seasoning, curry powder, ketchup, capers, and pickling brine are excellent ways to step up your game, as is a squirt of Guinness. (Guinness is the morning-after beer of the cognoscenti; see also ?Evelyn Waugh?s Noonday Reviver.?) I prefer V-8?not least because its presence invites playing the parlor game of naming the members of its vegetable octet ?and I have dabbled with celery bitters, Heinz cocktail sauce, and anchovy paste. Don?t you know that you can put anything in a Bloody Mary??browned shallots, broiled scallions, braised octopus, brain of veal ?. Skimp on the vodka, but know your limits. For instance, the brand called Vodka City?distilled, perhaps even proudly, in Baltimore?proves perfectly effective on a chemical level but can be rather too morally debasing, in its cheapness, to serve as a spiritual pick-me-up. Nor does the plastic of its bottle offer much tactile pleasure. If you?re ordering a Bloody Mary in a restaurant, then Do request that it is made with well vodka but Don?t ask what brand that is.

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